4649ing

Well, I’m feeling like a proper 4649 veteran now, but it’s actually only 3 weeks today that I was first invited to join Kissa Hanare’s project!

Taking part has raised all sorts of interesting questions: not least about my own lack of political awareness of what’s going on in my own country. I haven’t got anywhere close to answering those, but in the meantime I wanted to note down a few thoughts about my photographic contribution.

going for the chat jugular

In the introductory post I challenged you, dear reader, to take some images of the 4649 stickers that would stimulate a chat. Having already challenged myself to do likewise I had previously gone into Birmingham’s city centre and headed straight for two obviously very charged locations: the Hall of Memory and the Peace Gardens.

Yikes! Red poppies everywhere! Giant red poppies. hmmmm, not sure what I feel about that, think it’s possibly crossed a line somewhere…. (Oh, and by the way, Happy Christmas Birmingham)

Happy Christmas Birmingham

Heading off somewhere equally disturbing in the opposite direction, I also suddenly became aware of how noble and, well, perfect the statues around the Hall of Memory are.

sculpted

What exactly are we saying here?

… and how do I want to use the stickers to respond to it?

After a fairly predictable set of images involving statues and red telephone boxes I headed off down past the Mailbox towards the Peace Gardens - a distant memory from first-uni days and the number 44 bus up from the Vale.

public notice

This is when I started getting a bit more creative and started incorporating parts of existing signage into my images. Sod possible language barriers, this was much more interesting. I also loved the ambiguity that came from me not actually knowing what the text on the stickers says, or in what tone it says it.

What happens to 九条死守夜露四苦 when you put it next to a sign that says “For how long?”?

Anyway, I felt using the stickers to react to more subtle details in the city landscape was a lot more interesting.

Article 9999-999

round-up

I probably spent about an hour and a half taking photos and have whittled the results down to 39 which I’ve uploaded to a Flicker set.

Which ones are most successful and why? (How do you judge success for something like this?)

meanranch, while at the back…

down the pub

I just want to say a big thankyou to everyone who responded to the mailout and have requested stickers either from myself or directly from Hanare.

There’s not much time left before the Monday-night event, but you can still print off a few if you’d like to contribute.

Of the original batch of stickers Hanare gave me I’ve given away 11 to people who wanted to join in and I’m now left with just one. Where should I put it? Should I go for a good photo, should I stick it somewhere it’ll get left up for a while, or should I seek out somewhere where it’s likely to be seen by people who can read the text?

Kissa Hanare and the 4649 project

Every Monday (but not holidays, they don’t like to work on holidays!) Naho, Yufuko and Sakiko transform a Kyōto living-room into Kissa Hanare - something I like to think of as Café Independence (…but I’m now told the detached-ness I was inferring from dictionary searches is just an architectural reference). Not only does Hanare provide a menu of, where possible, locally-sourced, organic food, but they also work hard to create an atmosphere in which they and their guests can freely address a range of pertinent social and political issues.

In my limited experience, I’ve only just begun to scratch the surface of Japanese culture, but I have a small sense of how difficult it must be to create this type of space. (Hell, I can’t even really imagine it happening here!) What’s more, judging by the blog, I believe they’ve managed to make it sustainable to the extent that the project’s been running for at least 18 months now. Impressive!

Regular café nights are interspersed with lectures, workshops and larger projects.

4649 and Article 9

4649 (representing “yoroshiku” - a Japanese term I’m not even going to begin to try and translate, let alone the significance here) is Hanare’s latest project and they’d like to ask you for your support.

Since 1947, Japan has had a pacifist constitution arising from Article 9.

Aspiring sincerely to an international peace based on justice and order, the Japanese people forever renounce war as a sovereign right of the nation and the threat or use of force as means of settling international disputes.

In order to accomplish the aim of the preceding paragraph, land, sea, and air forces, as well as other war potential, will never be maintained. The right of belligerency of the state will not be recognized. wikipedia

Its exact origin is disputed, as has been its interpretation by successive governments. As you can imagine, there has recently been increasing talk from various Japanese politicians of revising this article.

I’m not going to start passing judgement here based on a few articles I found on the internet, however what I do feel strongly about is that there should be a space for Article 9 and the potential consequences of amending it to be highlighted and discussed freely amongst people who are not politicians.

I’ve exchanged emails a few times with Sakiko recently. Here’s how she introduced me to the 4649 project (slightly edited, my emphasis):

…we are planning to have a t-shirt silk-screening party on November 12th, in which we will print images of a Japanese gangster with the statement written also in the gangster style font that opposes amendment of the Article 9 of the Japanese constitution, which prohibits Japan from possessing any military force and use it to solve international conflicts.

Additional Information about Article 9

Article 9 is, in a way, an apology for neighbouring countries for what Japan did before and during WWII, as well as a promise that we will never become a militaristic country. The Japanese government has been attempting to transform the beautiful part of this constitution for a long time, yet have met huge opposition from Japanese people. Since Koizumi, though, the danger of the article being amended has been greater than ever, and we want to do something about it.

Here is what we are planning to do for the party. Prior to the party, we will print tons of stickers with the same image and send to those of you living abroad and outside of Kyoto. And I want you to put the stickers out on the street and take pictures of them and send to us, which we will project as a slideshow at the party and upload to a Flicker site. People attending the event are able to see the image in other parts of the world, and hopefully feel that we are not alone. Showing the photos is really critical because based on my experiences in Japan, we are so isolated from the rest of the world, physically, and mentally.

By showing the pictures, I want people to have a sense that what we are fighting matters, and is supported by people abroad, NY, SF, BCN, Pula, London, etc. plus, Japanese people living abroad might see the image too!

Here is an idea behind the image. In contrast to the States and Europe where there is a very sophisticated visual resistance culture, Japan lacks it so badly that young people here have a hard time getting involved with political activity. By taking the aesthetic of Japan’s gangster culture and twisting its violent and rather nationalistic representation, and saying goodbye to the conventional peace movement images like the dove, we are hoping to encourage Japanese young people that there are many creative ways to express their opinions.

Sakiko

Here is the image she’s talking about:

4649

A challenge to you

There’s a nice quote I came across whilst Googling stuff earlier:

To reach consensus in democracy, it is necessary to guarantee a free space where even the oppressed can express their opinion without concern for logical consistency and truth. The fact that chats have been neglected as the fundamental element of democracy shows that past democracy has been only for the few who could speak logically and consistently.Polylog

It doesn’t bear close scrutiny, but there’s a few nuggets in there that resonate strongly with how I perceive Hanare. My challenge to you is to use that graphic above to make an image that stimulates a chat at Hanare (or beyond).

Remember the aims are a) to have the sticker on the street and preferably somewhere that is obviously not Japan and/or b) to demonstrate the potential of creative techniques to express an opinion.

You could be provocative:

click for provocation

You could be subtle:

click for subtlety

You could be surreal:

click for surrealism

You could be terribly, terribly British (or whatever):

click for red phoneboxes

Useful bits of information

  • The event at Hanare is on Monday the 12th of November, so that’s the deadline to aim for.
  • To get some stickers you can contact Hanare at kissahanare[AT]yahoo.co.jp, they’ll take about a week to arrive.
  • To get some stickers you can contact me, I’ve got a handful spare.
  • To bypass the stickers and get started right away you can print the image from this file.
  • Email your photos to Hanare to add to their Flickr page. (Don’t forget to tell them where the photos were taken.)
  • Follow what’s going on on the Kissa Hanare blog

Can’t be bothered?

Here are some suggestions for some low-energy ways of showing some support for Hanare:

  • Forward this post’s link to people you know and spread the word.
  • If you have a Flickr account, add 4649 Project as a contact.
  • Subscribe to the Kissa Hanare blog feed: http://cafekyoto.exblog.jp/atom.xml

I’m sure you can think of others - be creative!

update: I wrote a little about the photos I took in this later post.

the pictures are better on radio

Still working my way through the backlog - this time another attempt at documentation that doesn’t involve sticking a video camera or a telephoto lens in anyone’s face. Including mine. urgh.

Here I walked with a voice recorder in the side pocket of my rucksack and a camera on interval timer just held in my hand as I walked. The result is some fairly snap, crackle and pop audio and some blurry photos…

…I think it works quite well!

The images [portrait format, distorted horizontally to fit the video’s dimensions - apologies to the woman in the brown dress] appear at minute intervals so there’s a long gap in between them where you only have the audio. Initially I was planning to have the images on screen for longer, thinking that visual = interesting. What I actually found was the images became something of a distraction. Ideally I’d just plug myself into my headphones and settle back with my eyes closed, but here I have to stay mindful of the screen and a minute is a really long time

Instead we have flashes of imagery to act as sort of orientation for the sounds, but not until you’ve had a while between photos to imagine up your own images to accompany the noises. In this way I think I regard the white as a blank canvas to paint your own pictures onto. Maybe not being able to understand what the people are saying is another aspect to this too?

There comes a point when you just have to back off and leave space for people to make their own meaning.

The full walk lasts for over 1 hour and is not for the faint-hearted, so here is a 10 minute extract. I really recommend headphones; whether you keep your eyes open or not is up to you.

Oh, and I was also hooked up to a galvanic skin response sensor at the same time, but that’s another story.

call and return

Yesterday I posted a few YouTube videos of work from SoPG:Yamanote.

Looking at the post later, I happened to set both players off at the same time and was struck by the effect of having two narratives running side by side.

The videos are definitely much stronger when taken as part of a group, so this is something I’ll be investigating further.

In the meantime I rattled off a quick side-by-side rendering as a test of concept. I like the way there seems to be a call and return between the two tales. Imagine what this would be like with 29 stories running at the same time!

The resolution of the video isn’t very high at all, so if you want to actually read the text, you can watch slightly better quality versions on the original post.

two kinds of tents

2 done, only another 27 left to go.

Yamanote Line platform jingles

I swear I was looking for a font when I came across this site with sound files of all the jingles played just before Yamanote trains depart from the station.

Here are a few tasters:

Meguro (clockwise)
Shinagawa (clockwise)
Takadanobaba (anticlockwise)

I don’t know why yet, but I’m sure this will come in useful one day!

unexpected Asakusa

Battling for air amongst all the other tourists, I tried to look at things a bit differently (or to shoot from the hip and not look at all).

Returning to the images a few weeks later, these are my unexpected photos of Asakusa’s Sensō-ji and Nakamise-dori.

JMap

jmap

When I first went to Japan I had no concept of where I was geographically other than “somewhere to the left of Tokyo”.

When I went to Japan the second time, I had no concept of where I was geographically other than being slightly savvy with the metro map.

After going to Japan for a third time I decided to plot the places I had been on a map. See the full interactive version here: http://npugh.co.uk/jmap

line up!

Walk to work: but very slowly and without getting out of turn.

the sound of watching

A week or two ago I posted an incomplete post about invigilator: Tokyo.

Well, I’m back in the UK now and sorting through all my documentation from the trip to Japan.

I’ve uploaded a few images to Flickr. There’s a slideshow here, but the pages on Flickr include captions giving more detail about each image.

but I was a bit wary about taking too many photos during the invigilation. I think it’s just a little bit too intimidating for a project that’s so much about how people react to subtleties within a space.

So, as an experiment with alternative forms of documentation, here’s a sound recording we made of the invigilation:

 
 invigilator: Tokyo [31:32m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

asakusa

For the last few days I’ve been staying in a ryokan in Asakusa: somewhere my friends tell me is very old style Japan.

I don’t think much of the view from my room.

window

However, on the plus side I’m about 20 seconds’ walk from Kaminari dori and Sensoji temple. I battled the crowds on Sunday morning, but by far prefer the place at night when it has room to breathe.

sensoji

hozomon gate

gate

silhouette

buddha

yaribi

After some serious Googling for artist-led projects in and around Tokyo, I ended up following a link to the Yaribi gallery. As is often the case in these situations, I’m following a link from an English-language site to a Japanese one, so I tend to get most of my information from the link rather than the site itself. In this case:

Yaribi is a little wooden hut constructed illegally on the roof of the painting department of Tama University by a number of students. They organise exhibitions in it. …The structure will stay on the roof for a while, and has the support of a number of professors. I suggested they perhaps involve curating and critical studies students as well as artists, to try create a broader public platform. Anyway, it is wonderful to see such initiatives in the normally rather quiet and reserved spaces of art schools.

All the universities here are just closing down for their Summer vacation so I thought I’d missed an opportunity to visit Yaribi, but fortunately they had two Open Campus days just at the time when I was staying at a friend’s house close by.

tamabi view

The campus is on a hillside on what I assume is the edge of Hashimoto. The buildings are that Eastern Asian concrete type of institutional architecture that I somehow simultaneously find quite uplifting but also incredibly bland. Hmmm.

painting east

Anyway, I finally tracked down the East painting building and the Yaribi rooftop.

Thanks to the language barrier again, I’m really not in a position to be able to say much about either the show or the organisational set-up but as far as I can make out there was previously a more ramshackle construction on the site that was made more solid in the early months of this year.

Thanks to some sheets of hardboard, some scaffolding, a website and a few judiciously placed tarpaulins, Yaribi seemed to me to be a really viable exhibition space. There are quite a large number of staff (a mix of current and graduated students?) and, judging from their website, a busy programme.

I’m really excited that something like this is happening, although I’m not really sure how autonomous it is and it’s still very much within the ‘safe zone’ of an art university (and probably within the students’ own department at that). I’d love to see more of this Outside, both in Japan and in Brum.

Could the use of scaffolding lend itself to a modular approach and a space that could be quite mobile? …or is it the semblance of something permanent that gives this project its strength?

yaribi

yaribi

wolf

scaffold

rear

front

inside1

inside2

sandwiched

Over the last week I’ve been able to cobble together a couple of fairly respectable sandwichboards that I intend to use to mark out an area under the watchful eye of a group invigilation.

It required an interesting combination of tools and materials from Meg’s studio and things like tweezers and a compass that I have in my rucksack.

sandwich

(just to put things to scale, the table is about a foot high…)

Finding people to work with for the invigilation is proving much more difficult so, for the time being, the boards remain blank and the red t-shirts un-worn.

13 galleries

18/07/2007

Takashima, Sato, Yamamoto Gendai, Kodama, SCAI the Bath House, Muramatsu, Nantenshi, Yamaguchi, INAX, Humanite, Koyanagi, Natsuka, Grafica.

My feet hurt.

arrival and getting started

I arrived in Japan shortly before a typhoon and a large earthquake although fortunately did not feel the effects of either (though by the time we saw a patch of blue sky on Monday morning it was notable enough to take a photo of it!)

Having sorted out communications I’m now in the slow process of sussing out how what I want to do fits in and around what everyone else here is doing. The schedule’s having to be quite flexible, but that’s fine ‘cos there’s always something interesting to do.

Yesterday I went to Megumi’s studio where she’s helping Linda produce a large fibre-glass sculpture made from mouldings of a classin Celica car they negotiated access to.

checking the moulds

Needless to say I wasn’t really prepared for a day grinding glass fibres so me and my t-shirt and shorts were entrusted with documentation duties. I also had a chance to start making some props for a planned invigilation I’m hoping to do.

So, Meg and Linda were all togged-up with safety gear and trying not to inhale or wear too many nasty substances and all I had to do was figure out how the hand saw worked…

linda

meg

saw

Twenty Jaffa Cakes

A 6 stanza themed renga form collaboratively written with Paul Conneally.

Form devised by poet Gary Gay.

Twenty Jaffa Cakes

a rengay

twenty jaffa cakes
a mistake to try and take
in her hand luggage

a slow and silent pat down
from the woman on gate one

stilettoes x-rayed
but her carbon footprint is
not for scrutiny

a hugely fat man
asks for the front port aisle seat
to rest his bad leg

smile and permanent jetlag
slept in uniform again

deep into morning
i finish my book somewhere
over africa

paul conneally and nikki pugh
July 12th 2007

My plane leaves at 8.30 tomorrow morning. I arrive at Narita on Saturday morning and from there I have to negotiate my way to Yokosuka. After a week or so in various locations around Kanagawa-ken I dive into Tokyo for about a fortnight.

Yamanote Stories

 
 Yamanote Stories (draft) [6:58m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

Checking the feasibility of telling the SoPG: Yamanote stories whilst travelling inbetween stations on the Yamanote line.

SoPG: Yamanote, revisited

With one thing and another I’ve been spending a lot of time recently working on different aspects of the Sites of Potentiality Guidebooks series.

As well as developing projects to keep pushing the format in new directions, I’ve been looking at how best to present last year’s Yamanote Line project.

Although most of my documentation at the time was done via photography (and a couple of dozen of rather nice tickets - man! I love that silky black finish on the back!) I really don’t want it to turn into some sort of photography project.

So far I have 2 possible solutions…

The first is a website style format where selected photos are presented alongside bilingual word-pictures of each walk. It’s good in that it goes some way to convey the sense of journey and experience, but I feel it’s still quite a passive mode of consumption.

I’m carefully describing them as website style because I’d choose to display them under very particular conditions where I can control the appearance. Normally I’d be a lot more inclusive with my web design, but this is me in prima donna control freak mode. So there.

To aid the feedback process though, I’ve uploaded the pages for the first day’s walks so you can have a look here. A change-log can be found at the bottom of this page.

The pages were designed to be viewed in Firefox (available here) with all navigation bars removed, in full screen mode and at a screen resolution of 1024 x 768px.

[Internet Explorer does its own thing and adds in a load of visual elements I don’t want ranging from vertical scrollbars through to blue borders around images. I’m PC-based, but a quick test in Firefox for Mac suggests there may be slight issues with variations in the positioning of the text. YMMV]

Here’s a screenshot of what I see. (Click for larger version)

Okachimachi

Solution 2 is performance based:

The time taken to do a complete circuit of the Yamanote line by train is about an hour. With 29 stations that’s a couple of minutes per station. Or, alternatively, a couple of minutes per walk.

During off-peak times, I think a carriage on a Yamanote line train would make the perfect venue for a presentation of the project: in sync with the different locations as myself and my audience (a mixture of pre-arranged and incidental) travel from station to station.

Here’s a draft version of how it might sound…

 
 Yamanote Stories (draft) [6:58m]: Play Now | Play in Popup | Download

Change-log:

We shall not cease from exploration…

  • The found translation for the T.S. Eliot quote:

    We shall not cease from exploration
    And the end of all our exploring
    Will be to arrive where we started
    And know the place for the first time.

    has been changed from:

    私達は調査から終わり、
    すべての私達の探検の終わりは私達が着くこと始まった、
     所をところにはじめて知っている。

    [source]

    to:

    人は探求を止めない。
    そして探求の果てに元の 所に戻り、
     初めてその地を理解する。

    Thankyou Yumi.

    Navigation

    Navigational elements have been moved to a more prominent position after noticing people tended not to move between pages. Also a change of colour on hover/active page has been added to the list of stations on the right hand side of the page to highlight these can also be used for navigation.

    Past or Present?

    After a nudge from Paul, the word pictures have been changed so that they are consistently in the present tense.

    Thankyou Paul.

    Linear

    An experiment with video to see how the linear format affects narrative:

  • queue-jumping

    In preparing various proposals etc over the last few weeks, I looked again at some of my photos from SoPG: Yamanote Line.

    In particular, these ones of queues outside a restaurant in Ōsaki:

    Oosaki queue

    Oosaki queue

    I’ve resolved that next time I get a chance to work in Japan, I’m going to develop a project that relates to the time spent in these queues. I’m sure it could be a good forum for some exchanges. Being in the queue could be the the raison d’être for being in the queue. Perhaps others in the queue could recommend other good queues to be in…

    (non-verbal) communication

    I promise you these document/augment a conversation that followed entirely logical thought-processes from one topic to another:

    [non stick people drawn by the rather talented Orie Inoue]

    panpipe moods

    A recently rediscovered gift from the man in the toyshop.

    sketch

    I’m not sure if this is a character from popular mythology, or indeed whether the pipe is a musical instrument or a flame-thrower…

    analogy for current levels of productivity

    Volume 13

    Volume 13 started off with sculptor Atsuo Okamoto: he agreed to fill in a page of the sketchbook and pass it on to another artist; I agreed to keep a small section of the artwork “Volume of Lives” with me until I die. Anything’s fair game in the world of artistic collaborations!

    Atsuo Okamoto

    Volume 5

    Orie Inoue: Is she a fashion designer? Is she an animator? Is she an illustrator?

    You decide... (but probably it's all of the above and more!)

    Orie Inoue

    Volume 1

    Ami Ko

    Battling a department that produces endless human figures, Ami now also has to work out how best to deal with an almost empty sketchbook…

    Volume 11

    Currently sending postcards to herself and contemplating a project involving invisible things, Eri was last seen planning how to use a smell as her contribution to the sketchbook.

    Eri Sasaki

    Volume 15

    On a sunny but cold Sunday, we travelled to Moriya to find out more about the Arcus project.

    Arcus building

    We had a look around the buildings and then a chat with the programme director. After that we met artist in residence Goh Ideta who was kind enough to spend time showing us his portfolio and talking about his works.

    Goh Ideta

    His profile on the Arcus website sums his work up pretty succinctly

    Works with experimental devices that utilizes light, shadow, and space to understand “perception,”“sensation,” and “existence.”

    or you can check out his website here, but I get the feeling these are works you have to spend time inside to really do them any justice.

    volume 15

    Volume 19

    Googling for “artist led projects, tokyo” eventually led me to Kandada. Their website is in Japanese (of course!), but armed with their English language map and this blog entry giving an interesting snippet of background information, I went to have a look.

    First up, I really liked the show they had on (Hong-Goo Kang ‘s Road to Eouido), but then I’m probably a bit partial to journey projects at the moment…

    Secondly, completely getting into the spirit of passing the sketchbooks on to other artists (!), the director volunteered staff member Ueno Masao to participate on Kandada’s behalf.

    Ueno Masao

    Welcome aboard Masao!

    kandada

    Peer-to-Peer Sketchbooks regained

    I’d got to the point where I was resigned to having lost the 8 sketchbooks I shipped over for dispersal in Japan.

    Due to arrive in my first week here (ie over 2 months ago) they eventually turned up this week, looking like they’d been sat on by a sumo wrestler or something.

    bashed box

    I’m not sure what customs thought they were going to find, but I hope they weren’t too disappointed…

    Still, that now means that rather than the 4 sketchbooks I thought I’d have to make do with, I now have 12 in total and things are going full steam ahead to invite people to participate. That means lots of visits to galleries and project spaces looking for… well, I’m not sure what, but I know it when I see it!

    Volume 21

    Volume 21 gets posted to Kyushu where the first page might have something to do with clay, something to do with computers or something to do with something completely different…

    the Nakagawa parcel

    Volume 9

    Surrounded by artists’ books of all shapes, sizes and types, Pepper’s Project not only agreed to take part in the project, but also completed their page there and then!

    Pepper's collage team

    details

    ready for the next person!

    oh yeah…

    Every so often I get a little kick up the pants that reminds me where I am.

    (Click on the image below for a decent size version.)

    fuji silhouette

    not free tissues

    On Suturday 4th of November, 2006, the Free Hugs Campaign came to Shibuya.

    free hugs

    After 3 free hugs and managing to completely confuse them, I gave them a free map and continued with my journey…

    update:

    and the video appears on YouTube:

    band practice

    Come back home; start to open front door; hear loudspeaker below; peer over railing; there’s a band. It’s not moving. Band starts moving and it’s LOUD! Grab camera; start filming; battery dies.

    Yamanote days

    I have now embarked on a tour of Tokyo.

    My guide is a map from the back of a gallery postcard, with all the labels surgically removed.

    map debris

    My starting point is every station on the Yamanote railway line.

    map book

    I’ve been doing it for 2 days now, and I’m halfway round. I don’t know where the map will take me, but there’s always something interesting to be found at the other end…

    Update: this became the Sites of Potentiality: Yamanote Line project.

    Kyoto toyshop

    Shortly after an observation that the art in Japan often happens outside of the art scene, Felicity took me to a toyshop.

    By that stage the conversation had moved on to architecture and the toyshop was to be an example of a building that, let’s face it, probably wouldn’t be around for much longer.

    toyshop

    Yes the toyshop sold toys. But it also sold customised jeans.

    toys

    It was a toys and jeans shop.

    customised stuff

    After purchasing a song book (from the toys and jeans shop) we were invited to have a look upstairs.

    desk

    To what is the jeans customiser’s studio.

    cupboard

    The previous owner had been in the building for 50 years and never used the upper floor. But the jeans customiser had cleared it out. The paper screens were brown with age, and there were ancient newspapers pasted onto the walls.

    felicity absolutely categorically not looking down on anyone in the street

    Bloody marvellous, but I bet it’s Baltic in the Winter.

    [Oh, and recently the studio of the toys and jeans shop had also been turned into a tea shop.]

    City Canal Tour

    Having excused myself early from the last segment of Johnny Hillwalker’s walking tour of Kyoto, I made a (not so) quick dash over to the Shimogamo Shrine to meet artist Markuz Wernli Saitô.

    The last time we’d met was on the Kamo Obashi bridge when, having randomly followed a link from this article, and discovering the momentarium website I thought it would be great to invite Markuz to be a starting point for the Peer-to-Peer Sketchbooks project.

    This time, however, was to be much more involved…

    Wednesdays in Markuz’s programme are city canal tour days where “surprises and wet feet are guaranteed”. Well, I certainly got both, starting with performing the opening ceremony!

    A condensed version of the tour can be viewed here http://momentarium.org/service/popup/1025.html (Quicktime format), but the actual event lasted about 2 hours.

    canalside futon clips

    It was fascinating to peer into people’s gardens from what was effectively ground level, and there were some nice little discoveries within the limbo territory of the canal itself: sights, sounds and smells.

    Mostly the people we saw did a double-take but recovered enough to give us a friendly “konnichiwa” or “kombanwa”. There were a few quality encounters though, such as the woman throwing food across the canal and two fences to a dog in a garden on the other side, and The Guy in the Red T-Shirt.

    The Guy in the Red T-Shirt

    I didn’t catch his name, but he just sort of appeared alongside the canal on his bike. After a brief introductory chat with Markuz, he left his bike propped up at the side and came down to join us. …but only for a few seconds before he started sprinting down the canal path!

    He reappeared some time later completely out of breath and stopped to chat some more. We saw him a few more times after that as he cycled over various bridges and gave us a friendly wave. I wonder if he ever got back in touch with Markuz later by email?

    camera

    I’m very much intrigued by how encounters like this can be documented. I was repeatedly amazed by the fact that, in Japan, Markuz has been able to leave his video camera set up on a tripod on the other side of busy bridges and in railway stations etc unattended and without fear that it would get stolen. How would you manage this in the UK or elsewhere? Some sort of hidden camera? An entourage of beefy cameramen?

    Is there some other way of documenting the process besides video? Does the record need to be visual and time-based?

    Maybe a more comforting way to regard my dozens of mosquito bites is as some form of alternative documentary record…

    Hillwalking

    I’d heard great things about his tour, so when I got the chance I joined Johnny Hillwalker for a stroll around Kyoto.

    Johnny Hillwalker's hat

    After starting with the main Bhuddist (this-one-only-cares-if-you’re-dead) headquarters, where even the concrete looks good, we went on to visit a range of smaller shops and workshops that I’d otherwise have been completly oblivious to.

    Folding-fans being assembled and pressed; sweet-makers making assorted things out of beans and sugar; and tatami mats being re-covered.

    All this on top of the usual collection of lanterns, torii and prayer-boards that you’d expect from this corner of Japan.

    Here’s his web page again in case you missed it first time around: http://web.kyoto-inet.or.jp/people/h-s-love/

    Kiyomizu dera

    Kiyomizu: pure water.

    Kiyomizu dera: temple complex built on the site of a mountain spring… and ultraviolet sterilizer

    kiyomizu uv

    Sugamo

    sugamo

    Known as the Grandmothers’ Harajuku, in Sugamo you can buy knicker elastic in unlimited quantities at the flea-market in the shrine grounds.

    sugamo knicker elastic

    However, it doesn’t matter where you are in the world, Granny Jumpers are always the same…

    granny jumpers

    Himejijo

    Rather marvelous.

    40 winks

    I’ve always been impressed by the amount of leg-room available on Japan’s shinkansen services, however when these 3 sleeeping beauties turned around the set of chairs in front and stretched out I was quietly amazed.

    socks x 3

    Hiroshima

    atomic bomb dome

    a week in Kumamoto

    click on images for lager versions…

    Exodus of obasan from the jinja:

    obasan exodus

    A stroll around the park:

    suizenji kooen

    The biggest koi carp you have ever seen:

    koi

    A 400 year old castle complete with concrete stairs and air conditioning throughout:

    kumamoto castle

    Collecting fresh spring water:

    spring

    …and fresh fruit:

    orchard

    Weather forecasting courtesy of 4-stick mountain:

    4 stick mountain

    Relaxing walks around the village (mosquitoes not withstanding):

    sampo

    Random foodstuffs:

    daikon

    An early morning drive to see Aso-san:

    mountain mist

    sunrise

    And the volcano up close:

    aso san

    A Noh performance in front of the floodlit castle:

    noh

    Former residence of Hosokawa Gyobu (and when the current owners are finished with it, I’ll have it!)

    residence

    Many thanks to everyone in the zoo for their hospitality:

    welcome to the mad house

    oshio matsuri

    As far as I could make out…

    Everyone from the local area gathers together in and around a shrine conveniently located next to a large open area (and the hospital…) and has a bit of a jolly in the still-quite-hot autumn afternoon: food, music, games, more food.

    shrine and lanterns

    Each neighbourhood has a team of young gents that limber up during the afternoon…

    red team watching

    …in preparation for all hell breaking loose once it gets dark.

    torii

    Each team has a large omikoshi carriage thing (but no wheels and no horses!) that weighs about 2 tonnes and must be carried out of the shrine, out into the large open and then used to try and nudge an opposing team into submission.

    red team doing

    As you can see from this video clip, the crowd is right in there supporting their team, so it gets a bit hairy when the omikoshi suddenly launches itself in a particular direction: people have to try and scatter out of the way. It gets really interesting when you find yourself trapped between three of them all converging towards you!

    and then the next day you’re back to seeing men with flashing beacons emplyed to safely guide you around completely fenced off road-workings…

    Gion and Kodaiji

    Garyoro (Reclining Dragon Corridor) and Otama-ya (Sanctuary):

    bridge

    Temple Garden:

    garden

    Gion house:

    house

    Gion tree:

    tree

    Shrine and cars:

    cars

    Gion lanterns:

    lanterns

    Iho-an (The Cottage of Lingering Fragrance, tea house):

    tea house

    Volume 17

    This week I was due to meet up with a friend in Kyoto on Saturday, but I altered my plans so I could meet up with momentarium Markuz Wernli Saitô.

    hostel baggage

    This involved arriving a day early and spending the night in a youth hostel… and then oversleeping the next morning, trekking back to the station, faffing around trying to find a locker big enough for my bags, trekking to a different station and then arriving at Kamo Obashi Bridge 10 minutes after the scheduled bridge-sit was supposed to end.

    Fortunately there was something of a crowd there and so I was still able to meet Markuz to invite him to take part in the project.

    Markuz Wernli Saitô

    Hopefully I will make it back to Kyoto next week to properly take part in one of the activities.

    reunion

    I spotted an old friend from last year:

    paper figure

    simple is best

    Good food, cooked on the table in front of you and eaten with friends.

    monjayaki

    nabe

    okonomiyaki

    shabu shabu

    summer school meal

    Even the stuff that’s not cooked in front of you is quite impressive….

    sasa dango

    end of phase 1

    After 4 weeks based at Joshibi, I have now left my rented room in Sagamiono with its views of the mountains and the vegetables on one side…

    sagamiono view

    …and the crazy firemen on the other.

    firestation

    This week I will stay at a friend’s house in the North of Tokyo and then on Friday I will start my travels: Kyoto, Kobe, Hyogo and Kumamoto.

    All the everything is always punctuated by lots of food with friends, but this week I have also had a chance to start thinking about my own work as well as continuing to see some interesting exhibitions.

    Let’s see what happens in phase 2…

    Volume 23

    Last week I entered the strange, strange world of Megumi Ishibashi.

    This is a world where large, contorted, fibre-glass figures leave flight trails that arch across the sky or
    struggle to escape from the arse-holes of technicoloured fish.

    megumi ishibashi, flying seven, amabiki 2006

    We built a new language and then we talked about studio spaces, art outside the gallery and residencies.

    It was fun; I gave her a sketchbook.

    megumi ishibashi

    I hope she likes it…

    light snack

    Kanagawa Prefecture Exhibition of Fine Art

    Last weekend I was invited to the awards ceremony for the 42nd Kanagawa Prefecture Exhibition of Fine Art.

    crowd

    A lot of people, a lot of art and a lot of speeches…

    gather

    Congratulations to those who received awards.

    award

    kawagoe

    For some reason, I took most of my photos in Kawagoe without looking.

    (Cick on the pictures below for larger images.)

    sweet stall

    sweet shop

    rickshaw

    girl